遍路心得 Pilgrimage Review
【四國遍路與我】
儘管不時受到佛教的耳濡目染,我自認並不是很純粹的佛教徒。這次來四國遍路,僅僅是帶著亞洲台灣的鏡框的視野來觀察與體驗。日本的佛教習俗教義與台灣一般熟知的「漢傳佛教」很不相同,有些部份甚至會更接近「藏傳佛教」多一些,具體差異我不甚了然,可是我知道每個佛教宗派都必定有它們獨特且偉大之處。然而,我個人是對於四國遍路非常好奇,好奇它為何直到今時此刻,依然能夠吸引如此多的朝聖者願意走這段長達一千兩百公里的遍路之道、並且千年不輟?因此,2015年春季我也來到了四國,也開始追尋空海大師的腳步。 有些佛寺並不容易抵達,可能不適合騎乘自行車;有些寺宇位處於鄉間, 你會經過一連串河谷、橋墩與森林,此時你必須注意水或者糧食的補給問題。 還有些札所建在山區,你需要穿越無數的隧道以及山坡地段,上坡永遠是遍路中的夢魘。又有些靈場位於沿海地帶,那你將會面對逆襲的海風以及陽光的曝曬。遍路中最舒爽的天氣無疑是陰天,假使沒有下雨將是戶外活動最為合宜的溫度。多虧四國遍路,沒有面對過這些挑戰,我從來不會曉得自己的能耐可以走這麼長遠的路。 這網站是關於我自身的四國遍路筆記,我所體會僅能書寫於此十一。原本嚐試以英文為主,有感於中文資料匱乏還有本身能力所及,還是先寫中文吧!先前我以為四國遍路會是一趟富含文化薰陶的環島旅行,期間不乏翻山越嶺、穿越無數鄉間小徑的時刻,我倒是處處感受到大自然的洗禮,至於精神洗禮云云... 終歸是我自己思慮得太膚淺。四國遍路之後,其實我仍對當地一無所知,我對於空海大師、真言宗、當地歷史民俗依然所知甚少。我每天僅僅是騎車、吃飯、睡覺,沿途上有許多美不勝收的風光,卻沒有駐足欣賞。取而代之是憂慮著前方路途未知與不確定性,甚至僅僅是不想停下恰到好處的騎車tempo,所以選擇繼續趕著路去下一座札所,並且天黑了找地方休息匆匆結束一日.....每當我回想起來,都覺得非常可惜。 如果當時我能夠多認真點學日語就好了!我便能夠與四國當地居民交流,相信會讓我的遍路之旅更多采多姿。無論如何,日本的四國已經在我心中占有一席之地,此處的人們是如此親切,我由衷感謝他們的微笑以及慷慨,因此我確信我還會再度造訪這個地方,或許是再一次單車別格二十靈場遍路也說不定!? |
【Shikoku Henro & Me】
I am not pure Buddhist, just as an Asian or Taiwanese view, Buddhism in Japan is pretty different from Han Chinese Buddhism(漢傳佛教), some parts could be closer to Tibetan Buddhism (藏傳佛教). But every Buddhism must have their own greatness, I was so curious of Shikoku Henro and Daishi KUKAI, how can it attract so many pilgrims walk this 1200 KM roads and continue for 1200 years til the present? Consequently, I came Shikoku for following the KUKAI's steps this spring 2015. There are some temples which is not easy to approach, also some of road is difficult to ride a bicycle. Some temples are very countryside, you have to pass the valley, bridge and forest, also notice the supply of food and water. Some are in the mountains, you need to across heaps tunnels and hills, that is always a nightmare while you are riding up-slope! Some are near to the seaside, you will face the challenges such as wind and sunshine. Cloudy would be the best weather on Henro way, you will like the moderate temperature if don't rain. Thanks for Shikoku Henro, I will never know I can go so far away and such a rough challenge without those experiences. This is my note of Shikoku Henro (sorry that I wrote in Chinese mostly). Before I regarded Henro as a good way to travel deeply in one place, but I was wrong. I still know less about KUKAI, Buddhism, History and Shikoku after Henro. Besides, I will say that Henro must be more colourful and interesting if I can communicate with local people in Japanese. Many beautiful views I just let it go but stop for a while, I did feel pity when I recall these moments. Anyway, Shikoku is an unforgettable place to me, people I met in Shikoku is so adorable, furthermore I appreciated their nice smiling and kindness, therefore I am definitely sure that I will visit here again in the near future! Perhaps for cycling another 20 Bangai-fudasho?! Will see! |